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Sabar Menanti Restaurant
By Marsita Omar written on 2006-04-05
National Library Board Singapore
Comments on article: InfopediaTalk
Located in the nasi padang belt of the famous Kandahar Street
in Kampong Java, Sabar Menanti is a well-loved Malay restaurant
serving authentic Minangkabau dishes. The restaurant is aptly
named, for in English, Sabar Menanti means wait patiently,
which one has to do, as the queue to get to the food in this
restaurant is usually long. Started over 47 years ago, the
running of the restaurant has passed on from the original owner
from Sumatra, Haji Marlian, to his children. Branches of the
restaurant that dish out Padang food have also sprung up around
Kandahar Street.
Introduction
Sabar Menanti is the name of a well-known nasi padang
restaurant serving dishes that are specialties of the Sumatran
Minangkabau people. The cuisine is named after the provincial
capital, Padang. Sabar Menanti is a simple restaurant occupying
a pre-World War II colonial shop-house in the padang food belt
of Kandahar Street, in the vicinity of the Sultan Mosque.
Together with Warong Nasi Pariaman, it is one of the two most
popular padang restaurants in Singapore serving authentic
padang food. Most of their food would be sold out by
lunchtime.
History
Sabar Menanti Restaurant was founded by the late Haji Marlian
Athar (b. Kuraiti, Pariaman province, South Sumatra - d.
1978). Also known as Bagindo Marlian, he came to
Singapore more than 47 years ago, rented a room in Palembang
Road and set up a small food stall. The business grew to become
a modest restaurant that was very popular. Haji Marlian passed
away in 1978 and the restaurant business was passed on to his
children and his wife, Hajah Rosmah Mailu. The family-run
business that has not changed hands ever since has extended to
several branches, all managed by Haji Marlian's family,
particularly his children.
In 1998, it was reported that there were altogether six padang
restaurants owned by the extended family. Three of the six
stalls were called Sabar Menanti Siang dan Malam (SMSM),
located at Kandahar Street and North Bridge Road where the
office of the Royal Press used to be. Ran by children of Haji
Marlian's first wife, Yusmal, Rizal, Tarmizi and Maryulis,
these restaurants were neighbours to another padang restaurant
owned by Haji Marlian's youngest child, Zubaidah, called
the Rumah Makan Minang at the corner of Kandahar Street and
Muscat Street. Another daughter, Hajah Ratnah, from Haji
Marlian's first wife, owned a nasi padang stall called
the Hajah Ratnah Nasi Padang.
The restaurant at Kandahar Street had to close for two weeks in
May 1999 when the Ministry of Health suspended its license for
flouting health regulations between September and November
1998. The restaurant accumulated 12 demerit points under the
Ministry's Point Demerit System during a 12-month period.
On two occasions, the kitchen was found to be dirty (the
kitchen floor was too wet), and on a third occasion, the
restaurant was penalized for exposing cooked food for sale.
Besides the suspension of license for two weeks, the restaurant
was also fined $1,100 for the offences. This hitch did not seem
to affect the restaurant's popularity as its regular
customers still pledged to patronise the restaurant after the
closure, a testimony of its enduring good food.
Currently, the Sabar Menanti restaurants are listed as Nasi Padang Sabar Menanti II located in North Bridge Road, and Sabar Menanti Restaurant & Catering at Kandahar Street. The food served here is still as tantalising as it was before. As early as 6.30 am, the restaurant starts serving the breakfast menu and closes only at 4.30 pm. Their popular dishes are ikan bakar (barbequed fish), dendeng Balado (smoked meat Balado style), ayam goreng (fried chicken) and rendang (spicy beef dish). But the most unique and most requested dish at their stalls is opor nangka (young jackfruit and beef tripe cooked in a thick gravy). 50 kilograms of rice are cooked everyday at the main stall. There are also set meals that include different types of rice meals. For breakfast there are mee siam, lontong, nasi lemak and mee rebus. And on Fridays, they serve gado-gado and laksa. To avoid a long queue, one must come before noon.
Author
Marsita Omar
References
Alijah Batcha. (2004, July 11). Tak sabar menanti. Berita Minggu p. 5.
Illydea Ishak. (1999, June 24). Sabar Menanti azam jaga kebersihan. Berita Harian, p. 9.
Norhaiza Hashim. (2004, June 14). Perlu kecekapan, stamina tinggi untuk bertahan dalam niaga makanan. Berita Harian, p. 6.
Puad Ibrahim. (1997, October 18). Membongkar rahsia silam Bussorah Street. Berita Harian, p. 18.
Restaurants license suspended. (1999, May 29). The
Straits Times.
Tan, T. (2003, October 25). To dine for. The
Australian.
Warung sumber rezeki keluarga. (1998, November 8). Berita
Minggu, p. 14.
The information in this article is
valid as at 2006 and correct as far as we are able to ascertain
from our sources. It is not intended to be an exhaustive or
complete history of the subject. Please contact the Library for
further reading materials on the topic.
Subject
Organisations>>Companies
Ethnic Communities>>Food
Ethnic restaurants--Singapore
Cookery>>Food
All Rights Reserved. National Library Board Singapore 2004.