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Sulam (embroidery)

Sulam is an art of embroidery used on traditional Malay and Nyonya (Peranakan) "blouses" or baju kebaya usually found on the front, bottom and joinings of the piece.

The baju kebaya is a hip length, close fitting blouse which would usually have its elaborately embroidered sulam on the front opening, fastened by three brooches, or kerosang, connected to one another by chain, serving as unique buttons. The blouse is worn over a batik sarong, adorned most often by a nonya or a "Straits Chinese" or "Peranakan" lady. Cutting the kebaya is very important as there are seven pieces to assemble; four front portions, two sleeves and the back. The rough edges are neatened by sewing sulam in a scallop design often enhanced with animal, plant or insect embroidery. The front portion is slightly lower than the back as the lower edges are cut at an angle. The embroidery moves upwards to about 1/3 of the overall length, its pattern repeated on the back as well as on the sleeves and lining the base of the blouse.

The most popular designs are roses, peonies, orchids, daisies, butterflies, bees, fish and chickens. Highly valued yet most demanding on the tailor are the open lattice work that link each image to the cloth. The material is stretched on an embroidery ring with the tailor running the machine over the design traced out earlier. The threads used bear two or three shades of one colour for each spool and the tailor constantly keeps switching spools to add variation of colour. The tailor needs creativity, patience and skill to execute the design. After the embroidery work is completed, the ketok lobang or "hole punching" is a process of neatening of the seams, where the tailor using a machine punches holes whilst simultaneously neatening the seams, creates an intricate webbing effect. It takes approximately three weeks to complete an elaborate design and is very taxing on the eyes. The machines used especially for the ketok lobang are no longer in production.



Authority
Andrea Craig



References
Masters of sulam. (1985). Goodwood Journal, 1st Qtr., 11, 32-33.


Further Readings
Straits Chinese heritage & vintage fountain pens: Straits Chinese porcelain, embroidery, beadworks, jewellery & vintage fountain pens. (1996). Singapore: Raffles Fine Art Auctioneers.
(Call no.: RSING q709.595 STR)

Treasures of the Babas: Fine Straits Chinese porcelain, jewellery, embroidery, and bead works: [Catalogue], Saturday, 18 March 1995, Empress Place Museum, Singapore. (1995). Singapore: Asia Fine Arts Auctioneers.
(Call no.: RSING q738.209595 TRE) 

The information in this article is valid as at 1999 and correct as far as we are able to ascertain from our sources. It is not intended to be an exhaustive or complete history of the subject. Please contact the Library for further reading materials on the topic.

Subject
Commerce and Industry>>Labour and Employment>>Vanishing Trades
Embroidery--Singapore
Ethnic embroidery--Singapore
Business, finance and industry>>Economics>>Labour economics
Arts>>Decorative arts>>Textile and costume



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